U.K - Stratford-upon-Avon (May 2014)

Stratford-upon-Avon was our first place for accommodation, and we stayed at the Penryn Guesthouse for three nights. From here, we not only visited the main places of attraction for Stratford-upon-Avon, but also drove to Moreton-in-Marsh (around half an hour drive).

Accomodation

Penryn Guest House

Penryn Guest House

We stayed here for three nights, and it cost us £218.70 (S$459.27) in total. It comes with free wifi too.

Our room at Penryn Guesthouse

The room was quite clean and spacious, and was one of the best rooms during our trip. 

Breakfast

The breakfast (included in the price) here was pretty impressive. Every night we would fill up a form, specifying what we would like for breakfast the next day and our preferred breakfast timing. 

Address: 126 Alcester Road, Stratford-upon-Avon CV37 9DP, United Kingdom
Website: www.penrynguesthouse.co.uk

Attractions

Due to Stratford-upon-Avon being the birthplace of William Shakespeare, the attractions here were mainly focused around Shakespeare. We bought the Five-House Pass, which granted us entry to Anne Hathaway's Cottage & Gardens, Hall's Croft, Mary Arden's Farm, New Place & Nash's House, Shakespeare's Birthplace, and Shakespeare's Grave (as a bonus).

As reference, Anne Hathaway was Shakespeare's wife, Mary Arden his mother, John Hall his son-in-law, and Thomas Nash the first husband of his granddaughter.

Mary Arden's Farm

My initial thought was that this should be more of an 'exhibition' of the farm. But I turned out to be wrong - pleasantly wrong, to be exact. Rather than just preserving the farm, they have occupied it and run it. People were doing the traditional farm chores around the farm. At the farmhouse kitchen, there were people cooking (over a fire too, without using gas or electricity). And there were other activities to entertainment guests, like archery and falconry displays.

The rickyard

Chickens and ducks roosting within the enclosure

The Dovecote

This was made of local limestone rubble, and has more than 650 nesting holes for pigeons. Just imagine the amount of bird droppings here if it was still occupied...

The dining area of Palmer's farmhouse

The farmhouse kitchen

Here's where they do their cooking. In the spirit of the Tudor times, they actually gather firewood and start the fire in the very traditional way. I asked one of the kitchen helpers whether they have cheated before, and she admitted that yes, they have done so before, but only very rarely. The last time they used gas or a lighter was because the firewood was too wet, and they couldn't start the fire despite trying for more than two hours.

Elly, at the Tudor farmyard

Elly was very well groomed. The stable hand explained that they groom her everyday, and we could see the great care and affection they had for Elly while grooming her.

This is definitely the hairiest pig I have ever seen.

Anne Hathaway's Cottage & Gardens

Anne Hathaway's Cottage is very picturesque - the beautiful gardens and grounds are splashed with greenery, shrubs and flowers.

The garden at Anne Hathaway's Cottage

Approached by a cat at the arboretum

This cat emerged from the bushes while I was standing in the middle of the arboretum. With eyes and footsteps filled with purpose, he strode towards me with no hesitation at all. Once he reached, he promptly flopped over for a belly rub - which I gladly obliged.

Actually, I felt as if I had been manipulated by the cat.

At the Woodland Walk

Anne Hathaway's Cottage

The Hathaway Bed

Beds were a luxury in the past, and Shakespeare actually has two. This was actually the 'second-best' bed, as during those times, the best bed was usually reserved for guests.

Shakespeare's courting chair

On this oak and walnut panel-back armchair, the initials "W A S" were carved and stands for "William and Anne Shakespeare". It was supposedly the chair which Shakespeare used while courting Anne Hathaway. However, it is widely accepted that this is probably untrue.


Shakespeare's Birthplace

The entrance was definitely misleading, as it looked so new and modern that I thought it was just an exhibition hall. But fortunately, everything went back to the Shakespearean era after we went in. This included the house he was born and grew up in, but it was actually more of an exhibition that included other things like pictures, timelines of his life, his family tree, and various stories.

  

 Wall-mounted metal discs depicting Shakespeare's works

There was a wall book outdoors, which showed cartoon illustrations and summaries of his works. Took some pictures of the more well-known ones below.

Romeo & Juliet wallbook 

The Merchant of Venice wallbook

Hamlet wallbook

King Lear wallbook

Macbeth wallbook

Hall's Croft

John Hall was the husband of Shakespeare's daughter, Susanna. As a physician, he was very wealthy, as shown from his large house with its luxurious rooms and decorations.

Hall's Croft

Timber during those times was very expensive, and a house having more timber pillars can be seen as a symbol of wealth. Hall's Croft had many more pillars than the average person's pillars (just in the front though - the back had significantly fewer pillars because no one could see them).

One of the bedrooms in Hall's Croft

Hall's Croft Gardens

New Place & Nash's House

Nash's House was very well-preserved, and the ground floor has been furnished, as much as possible, as it should have been during Nash's times. Right beside the house lies the foundations of New Place, which was actually a house bought by Shakespeare. It was the second biggest place in Stratford at that time, an indication of Shakespeare's success as an established playwright.

We learnt from the guide that after Shakespeare had passed away for some time, Reverend Francis Gastrell bought over New Place. He was someone who had no love for Shakespeare and purchased the place as a normal property and not because of its links with Shakespeare. In time, he became sick of visitors and destroyed the mulberry tree in the garden - which was supposedly planted by Shakespeare himself. That incurred the wrath of the public. Gastrell also used his religious beliefs (as an excuse?) to avoid paying tax, and in the end, in a final act of spite, he demolished the place in 1759 and hastily left town.

A picture of how the place should have looked like in the past

The beautifully lush flower garden

The deeper part of the gardens

Shakespeare's Grave

Shakespeare's Grave was located at the Holy Trinity Church, and admission was free with our five-house pass.

The graves are on the bottom of the picture. From left to right, the graves of Anne Hathaway, William Shakespeare, Thomas Nash, John Hall, and Susannah Shakespeare

The grave of the poet William Shakespeare

The epitaph was written by Shakespeare himself, and the words are:

Good frend for lesvs sake forbeare,

To digg the dvst encloased heare.

Bleste be  man  spares thes stones,

And cvrst be he  moves my bones.

A quick check showed that in modern English, the words could be translated to:

Good friend, for Jesus' sake forbear,

To dig the dust enclosed here.

Blessed be the man who spares these stones,

And cursed be he that moves my bones.

Dining

The Opposition Bistro

The Opposition Bistro

We expected much more from this place actually, due to its high ratings and good reviews on Tripadvisor. It turned out to be so-so, not bad but nowhere near what we had expected.

Duo of home-made chicken liver pate & coarse country terrine, £6.75 (S$14.18)

Both the liver pate and terrine were quite flavoursome, though the pate could be a bit smoother.

Lamb meatballs with grilled aubergine and mint yoghurt, £6.25 (S$13.13)

The presentation of this dish was quite intriguing - it looked like an island. Can you see it? The meatballs were quite fresh, and the mint yoghurt went rather well with it.

Pork fillet & slow roasted pork belly with creamed potato  savoy cabbage, £13.75 (S$28.88)

This was my main dish. This was still quite all right. The pork fillet was quite savoury, but it's a pity the pork belly skin wasn't crispy enough.

Penne pasta with roasted aubergine & mild chilli sauce with mozzarella, £9.75 (S$20.48)

Maybe it was due to it being a vegetarian dish... but we thought this was very unappetising. It was just so bland and boring. There just wasn't any incentive to eat the next bite, and we left it unfinished.

Address: 13 Sheep Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6EF, United Kingdom
Website: www.theoppo.co.uk

Il Moro

Came here for dinner. As we were early, we managed to get the pre-theatre set dinner, which was a bit cheaper than the normal set dinner. Prices below are for individual dishes ordered separately.

Salmon carpaccio, rocket, capers & lemon, £7 (S$14.70)

Nothing much to say about this, as it can be prepared rather easily (and is hard to screw up). It did taste quite good, though.

Pork Ripieno, Pecorino cheese, pancetta & rocket £15 (S$31.50)

This was pretty OK and was the best dish for the night. The pork was delicious, and the cheese and rocket served as good accompaniments.

Sardinian Fregola, Mediterranean shellfish, tomato & chilli sauce, £9 (S$18.90) for small portion

For a small portion, this was quite value-for-money. It was just average though - the sweet taste of fresh seafood was lacking, and the sauce didn't have that 'fresh' taste.

Mascarpone & coffee tiramisu, £6 (S$12.60)

I found this to be a bit too dry and dull.

Address: 33 Greenhill Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6LE, United Kingdom
Website: www.ilmoro.co.uk

Loxleys Restaurant & Wine Bar

This was even higher rated on Tripadvisor. But it was a bigger let-down compared to The Opposition Bistro. I wouldn't say that the food sucked - but it definitely did not make an impression. At least we got the pre-theatre set dinner, so we did pay a little less. Again, the prices quoted below were for individual orders.

"Loxley's" Buffalo Wings, £7.25 (S$15.23) for four wings

There were three levels of spiciness for this - Spicy BBQ, Extra Hot, and Asian. Of course I took the Asian. What else would it be? And naturally, it wasn't spicy at all. Pfft. The chicken was also a bit dry, so... I found the dish to be a bit disagreeable overall.

Cream of broccoli, £4.95 (S$10.40)

This was thin and insipid. Enough said.

Oven-baked Lasagne Al Forno, £10.50 (S$22.05)

This was glazed with a layer of parmesan cheese, and came with some focaccia garlic bread. For lasagne, I thought it was too light and not rich enough. Maybe that's why it's under the 'Light Meals' section of the menu...

Salmon fishcakes, £11.95 (S$25.10)

The fishcakes came with pickled fennel, wild rocket, capers, and drizzled with lime vinaigrette. The salmon didn't taste as though they were freshly mashed to make the fishcakes, so once again, this was another unsatisfying dish.

Address: 3 Sheep Street, Stratford-upon-Avon, CV37 6EF, United Kingdom
Website: www.loxleysrestaurant.co.uk